Words: Marivi Barrios

The view over Cambodia was one very unlike the  familiar sights of tropical trees and crystal-clear waters of the Caribbean islands that I had just left. I was heading to a very different place for a very different experience. It was 8 a.m. when I was a passenger aboard Air Asia flying to Phnom Penh, Cambodia.

Upon arrival at the Phnom Penh International Airport, I rushed to the airport terminal to line up for my on-the-spot visa. I realized that my rushing was unnecessary as the airport was rather efficient at getting each passenger through. A quick payment of $20 U.S. systematically took us through a line that received, processed and stamped our passports through in a matter of minutes. I had to listen carefully for my name though, as the passport pick-up wasn’t as carefully organized at the end of the line. I quickly went to gather my belongings and hail a cab.

My taxi which cost a mere $20 U.S. for my personal use throughout the day and was equipped with a personal chauffeur. Not bad considering the fact that I had much to do within my two-day stay. En route to the hotel, I couldn’t help but notice the hustle and bustle on the streets of Phnom Penh. Motorcycles are the preferred mode of transportation for this city. It wasn’t unusual to see a family of five all riding together on one bike. Phnom Penh is not different from any other small city with amenities like shops, schools and businesses. Several districts still retain their French flavour in the architecture of many of their buildings. As much as the city is still rebuilding itself, the poverty is still evident in the rawness of the scene. Dirt roads, locals dressed in rags and homes the size of small cabins are common sights on this trip. My cab driver, Chheng, lives alone in a small room for $30 U.S. per month. He has one television, a bed and a cab. He speaks of how he takes a visit to his parents out in the countryside every now and then, but only when he can afford to. The people of Cambodia are striving to rebuild the city that was once devastated of many of its innocent people in the hands of despotic political leaders. It is hard to believe that the atrocities that occurred here only happened a few decades ago.

Travelling to Phnom Penh, Cambodia

I arrive at the corner of Monivong and Kampuchea Krom, a busy intersection and very active part of Phnom Penh. I wanted to make a quick trip across the street to buy a bottle of water. Although the bottled water cost only a few cents, crossing the street took almost 20 minutes! Motor vehicles here don’t really stop or go at designated times, as the traffic lights at home would dictate. Instead, the flow of traffic is constant, stopping only when dangerously close to another vehicle—or in my case, a pedestrian! It took me the full day to finally learn how to bravely weave through the traffic by foot.

Near The Killing Fields in Cambodia

My taxi took me to my first stop, Cheung Ek, otherwise known as the Killing Fields. I was met by a few young children no more than six years of age. “Take picture? Say cheese!” say the children as they bear large smiles posing for a picture and hoping that they might be able to earn a dollar. One of those children began to follow me saying “$500 to pay for schooling for all the children in this village.” As I regretfully declined, they carried on to the next set of tourists behind me. It was a sad but raw picture of what life was like in the countryside of Phnom Penh. The Killing Fields are the mass graves to thousands of tortured  innocent victims under the ruling of Pol Pot. The skulls, bones and clothes of some of the deceased still remain in Cheung Ek. The paths through the graves still hold partially uncovered remains of these victims. The sad story told by my tour guide— about how his relatives were brutally murdered at the very place we were standing—left me in tears. Cheung Ek is a monument in honour of those who have perished during the reign of Pol Pot.

Two small children on the side of the street in Cambodia

My next stop was to see the Tuol Sleng Genocide Museum. This elementary school-turned-torture chamber was the prison for those victims later found in the Killing Fields. This institution was preserved as best as possible as it was found. The walls of some cells are still laced with blood splatters, and the instruments of torture still left where they were originally discovered. You could feel the sadness and despair as you entered each cell, and walked through each hallway. The stories of the executions and tortures were explained on displayed signage at this museum, but the sights themselves told the stories without words. One of the rooms was filled with photos of the people that had been imprisoned in Tuol Sleng: there were elderly people, professionals, children, students, even babies. Only a few moments into this tour, it became quite overwhelming and very emotional.  It is a harsh reminder of the evil man is capable of. 

Chheng stands outside the gates of Tuol Sleng waiting to take me to my next destination. As I walk freely outside of this museum, I can’t help but think about those who weren’t able to do the same. I wanted to explore Phnom Penh more as it is today, and to meet the people and experience the culture. I headed off to Psah Thmey, otherwise known in English as the Central Market. Only in Cambodia can I buy four metres of pure handmade silk material, one knock-off Northern Face knapsack, one soccer jersey set, six T-shirts and six small silver trinket boxes for under $32 U.S. This market was bargain central! The market itself was a magnificent structure in itself: the shape almost reminded me of the flying saucer in Close Encounters of the Third Kind. The building was enormous and a very busy place! As if inside wasn’t large enough), hundreds of umbrellas surround the central structure covering more vendors than are found on the inside. Here you will find everything from designer clothing to barbecued beetles. 

I was already more than two thirds of the way through my trip. I decided that it was time to eat, so I asked Chheng to take me to a genuine Cambodian restaurant for some dinner. We went to Sorya Restaurant, which was only a stone’s throw away from the Central Market. I was able to devour a juicy 10-ounce tenderloin steak in red wine sauce with rice for only $5 U.S. The food was absolutely delicious. And of course, how could you come to Cambodia and not try Angkor Beer - for the equivalent price of a coke back home.

I turned in at 8 p.m. that night, as I had more plans for the following day. My flight was going to leave at around 3 p.m., so I had to get a move on in the morning to see the rest of the sights.

A monkey sitting at Wat Phnom, Cambodia

A view from Phnom Penh, Cambodia

First thing the following morning, Chheng met me in front of my hotel. He had offered to take me around for the half-day for just another $15. We headed off to Wat Phnom, the largest place of worship here in Phnom Penh. It wasn’t anywhere as grand as the Angkor Wat in Siem Reap, but it sure was beautiful. This area was a great place to stroll around and relax. There were several monkeys on the grounds that were not at all photo-shy! If you’re an artistic photographer, this place could be your playground. Wat Phnom is so easy to photograph, and pretty from many angles on the inside and the outside. It was unfortunate that I was unable to see the elephants on this day. If you’re lucky enough to be on the grounds in the early morning, you can see the elephants depart from Wat Phnom for their daily walk.

Next, I made my way to Sisowath Quay. This street lines the Tonle Sap River on the east side of the city. On Sisowath Quay you can sit on a restaurant patio with a cool beverage overlooking the river. This area is considered the tourist district. The police are quite active here as they are often seen strolling the walk. The street is lined with many styles of accommodation for all budget types, as well as restaurants and bars. I went exploring the different shops and services including travel agencies, bike shops and barbers. I walked into New World hair salon and aesthetics to see what kind of services I could have done—their price list included $3 U.S. eyebrow waxing, $8 U.S. massages and $10 U.S. wedding make-up applications. I could probably have had a full spa treatment for less than $50 U.S. 

Unfortunately I had to leave to make my flight. Chheng waited for me at the agreed-upon destination to take me back to the airport. My ride back was a very quick one, and the sights upon leaving had me thinking more and more about how lucky I am to have what I do back at home. It’s hard to believe that the money I had spent for Chheng’s services would pay for a month’s worth of rent for him. I wish that I could’ve given more to those who had asked money of me. My two days in Phnom Penh were both a low point and a highlight, but I went back home with a better appreciation of what life has given me.